MBFWxUFW: BOBKOVA show at MBFW Berlin
On September 6, the Ukrainian brand BOBKOVA presented the KYIV CHESTNUT SS23 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin , with the support of the “Support Ukrainian Fashion” Initiative from Ukrainian Fashion Week. The BOBKOVA show was the fourth event of the UFW International Season SS23.
Imbued with thoughts about the strong-willed and brave hearts of Ukrainians, the new BOBKOVA collection tells about freedom in the broadest sense. This is the freedom of self-identity, which the designer explores in Ukrainian traditions translated into the modern language. It is a liberation from gender conventions, when the wardrobe becomes a playground for experimentation outside the stereotypes of femininity and masculinity. It is the emancipation of one’s own sensuality, when wide trousers can carry the same strong erotic message as a semi-transparent dress.
Blossoming chestnuts on Khreshchatyk are a key visual image for the Ukrainian designer, who dedicated her color palette to the floral symbol of Kyiv. Shades of creamy white, buttery yellow, pale pink on the background of nut, burnt clay and emerald convey the idea of rebirth of the native land, while the metallic tones of crisp silver metaphorically speak of the hardened steel of the Ukrainian spirit.
Hits of the era of the early 2000s
Having presented her first collection back in 1998, Kristina Bobkova brings back the stylistic hits of the early 2000s in the spring-summer 23 collection. A utilitarian low-rise button-down skirt and wide-leg trousers with adjustable elastics, complete with form-fitting stretchy bodysuits, low-waisted, bustier-top tutu dresses, and long, sheer, sheer knit dresses are iconic to BOBKOVA and have been featured in all collections for decades.
The basis of the collection is Bobkova’s signature architectural minimalism, inspired by the strict cut in the Japanese tradition. Sartorial suits with trousers or a skirt and oversize shirts in calm shades become the basis of Bobkova’s collections from season to season. They are gender neutral and can be worn by both men and women. For a designer, such items represent the ideal of everyday clothing. A vivid example is a voluminous poncho dress, comfortable, refined and multifunctional. It can be worn as a dress, jacket or cape for leisure. This season, key pieces are voluntarily “unfinished” and showcase open seams, stitching and cuts, emphasizing the handwork of the brand’s Kyiv studio.
The designer studies traditional Ukrainian crafts to offer meaningful accessories. For this collection, she revived the ancient techniques of creating decorative beads by baking them in ovens in the Ternopil region. Beads decorated with naive motifs were used in handmade silk and cotton textile belts and earrings. Cossack slipper boots are also inspired by the national costume and are handmade in Ukraine.
This season, Bobkova begins an important collaboration with Chris Bader, an eco-conscious bag brand from Southern Germany. With 150 years of experience working with leather as tanners, the Bader family has brought their expertise and concept of local sustainable production to the new line of Chris Bader x BOBKOVA casual bags.
Photo: MBFWxUFW Show Bobkova at MBFW Berlin
Sebastian Reuter/Getty for Nowadays
